AFGHANISTAN; Mazar-Sharif
The `Blue Mosque` of Mazar-I-Sharif, in north-west Afghanistan, is one of
the most exquisite places of worship in the Islamic world. It is also an
important place of Muslim pilgrimage, especially for Shi`ite Muslims, who
believe the mosque houses the tomb of Ali bin Talib, the son- in-law of the
Prophet whom they consider the Fourth Caliph. Other historical references
claim that Zarathustra, the founder of Zoroastrianism is buried here. In the
12th century, the Seljuk sultan Ahmed Sanjar ordered a shrine erected on the
sacred site and to escape Mongol raids it was covered with earth, remaining
lost, until re-discovered during the rebuilding of the mosque in the 15th
century. Attributed to both Sunni and Shi`a artisans, Mazar-I-Sharif is an
outstanding example of classic Islamic architecture, every inch covered with
gleaming cobalt blue and turquoise tiles inscribed with verses from the
Qur`an. Local legend credits it with the mystical power to turn white any
dove alighting in its courtyard. The mosque escaped the Russian occupation
of Afghanistan in the late 1970`s and has survived the destructive Taliban
era. Both Mazar-I-Sharif and the ancient city of Balkh, 9 km, are
outstanding cultural attractions but few visitors, save devout Muslim and a
few Zoroastrian pilgrims attempt the hazardous 5-hour road journey from
Kabul.