AFGHANISTAN; Mazar-Sharif

                          

               

 

Photographer: Tim Gurney CENTRAL ASIA

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The `Blue Mosque`of Mazar-I-Sharif, in north-west Afghanistan, is one of the most exquisite places of worship in the Islamic world. It is also an important place of Muslim pilgrimage especially for Shi`ite Muslims who believe the mosque houses the tomb of Ali bin Talib, the son- in-law of the Prophet whom they consider to the Fourth Caliph. Other historical references claim that Zarathustra, the founder of Zoroastrianism was buried here. In the 12th century, the Seljuk sultan Ahmed Sanjar ordered a shrine erected on the sacred site and to escape subsequent Mongol raids it was covered with earth remaining lost until re-discovered during the rebuilding of the mosque in the 15th century. Attributed to both Sunni and Shi`ia artisans, Mazar-I-Sharif is an outstanding example of classic Islamic architecture, its every inch covered with gleaming cobalt blue and turquoise tiles inscribed with verses from the Qur`an. Local legend credits it with the mystical power to turn white any dove alighting in its vast courtyard. The mosque escaped the Russian occupation of Afghanistan in the late 1970`s and subsequently survived the destructive Taliban era of the early 21st century. Both Mazar-I-Sharif and the ancient city of Balkh, 9 km, are outstanding cultural attractions but few visitors, save for devout Muslim and a few Zoroastrian pilgrims attempt the hazardous 5-hour road journey from Kabul. Nowruz, the ancient Zoroastrian new year is celebrated with much fervour in Balkh province which is a traditional centre for the boisterous sport of buzkashi.