POLYNESIA: Taputapuatea
The Taputapuatea complex on Ra`iatea, largest of the
Leeward Islands lying to the north-west of Tahiti is the most significant
religious site in French Polynesia. Ra`iatea - is recognised throughout Tahiti
as a `sacred island` since it is believed to have been where the early
Polynesian migrations arrived from Hawaii. Tradition also holds that it was
from this spot that other great voyages of exploration departed. Ra`aitea is
enclosed by the same coral reef surrounding the adjacent island of
Taha`a. Both islands are lush tropical paradises with classic South Seas
landscapes of swaying coconut palms and turquoise lagoons. The Taputapuatea
temple complex is located near the entrance of Fa`aroa Bay, a deep slash on
the east coast of Ra`iatea, one hour`s drive from Uturoa the island capital.
A wall of massive basalt slabs runs along the seaward side of the site which
encloses a marae platform which seems likely to have been a sacrificial
altar. Here too is the standing stone of Havai’i fanau’ra fenua which
means `the cradle` (of civilisation) in Polynesian. Other ruins on the
north-west coast near Tainu further attest to pagan worship. Most tourists
visiting Tahiti opt for the more famous Bora Bora but people interested
in local culture should include Rai`atea - `faraway heaven` - in an
island-hopping itinerary.