POLYNESIA: Taputapuatea
The Taputapuatea complex on Ra`iatea, largest of the Leeward Islands lying
to the north-west of Tahiti, is the most significant religious site in
French Polynesia. Ra`iatea is recognised as a `sacred island` since it is
believed to have been where the early Polynesian migrations landed on
arrival from Hawaii. Tradition also holds that it was the departure point
for other great voyages of exploration. Ra`aitea is enclosed by the same
coral reef surrounding the adjacent island of Taha`a. Both islands are lush
tropical paradises with classic South Seas landscapes of swaying coconut
palms and turquoise lagoons. The Taputapuatea temple complex is located near
the entrance of Fa`aroa Bay, a deep slash on the east coast of Ra`iatea, an
hour`s drive from Uturoa the island capital. A wall of basalt slabs runs
along the seaward side of the site which encloses a marae platform which
seems likely to have been a sacrificial altar. Here too is the standing
stone of Havai’i fanau’ra fenua which means `the cradle` (of civilisation)
in the Polynesian. Other ruins on the north-west coast further attest to
pagan worship. Most tourists visiting Tahiti opt for the more famous Bora
Bora, but people interested in local culture should include Rai`atea -
`faraway heaven` - in their island-hopping itinerary.