TIBET: Mount Kailash

                          

         
Photographer: Bill Smith  CENTRAL ASIA

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If mountains are the dwelling place of Gods, Mount Kailash, a 7000 metre peak in western Tibet is the most venerated place on earth for the three great Asian religions: Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism, as well as Bon, the indigenous religion of Tibet. A sacred mountain it has never been climbed, and belief holds that deviation from the traditional circumambulation path around its 52 km base will result in death. Mount Kailash and nearby Lake Manosarava (the Invincible Jade Lake) are visited by relatively few pilgrims because of their remote location. The only access is by four-wheel drive and yak, a rugged 10-14 day journey in treacherous weather conditions. The aim, in visiting the mountain, is to perform the ritual circuit which is believed to bring good fortune - Buddhists say that one circuit can atone for all the sins committed in a lifetime. Hindus who believe the mountain is the abode of Lord Shiva, walk in a clockwise direction as do Tantric Buddhists who consider it is the home of the Buddha Demchok. Jains who know it as Mount Ashtapada, believe it is where Rishaba, the first tirthankara attained nirvana. Jains and Bons walk counter-clockwise round its base. A brisk walker can complete the circumambulation in 3-4 days. Ultra devout pilgrims perform arduous prostrations - kneeling, lying down full length, rising again, and praying for the entire journey. Such penitents who may further immerse themselves in the freezing lake, may take up to three weeks to work their way around the base. Small rest places and refreshment stalls exist, but pilgrims must carry all supplies for overnight camping